It was surprisingly fun. More of a action RPG dungeon crawler than I expected, and the demon raising and item crafting worked surprisingly well. Sadly, since it's a 3d Castlevania then it's always going to be considered "shit" by most people.
FWIW, I thought it was much more enjoyable than Lament of Innocence and a far superior entry to the series than Circle of the Moon, Harmony of Dissonance, and Portrait of Ruin. Not really sure how I'd rank it against Legacy of Darkness... they were both pretty enjoyable but not without their share of flaws.
Since it's PS2 month, I think I'm going to take a stab at Krome's Ty the Tasmanian Tiger series. It seems to work pretty well in PCSX2 (whereas the Gamecube version has a ton of display oddities in Dolphin) and the word of mouth for the trilogy has always been fairly positive.